White Tie

One of the most classic and formal etiquettes is white tie. This dress code is usually worn at very formal occasions. Think of a gala, meeting with a prominent person, wedding, an exclusive banquet, or special dinner. When ‘white tie’ or ‘cravate blanche’ is stated on the invitation, you are expected to wear a tailcoat suit according to the corresponding etiquette.

Even during a university promotion ceremony, the male doctoral candidate and paranymphs are expected to appear in a tailcoat suit. Not sure what white tie etiquette entails? GENTS is happy to help. Here you will find all the important information about the rules for wearing a tailcoat suit correctly. Together with GENTS, you can easily avoid a faux pas.

Formal five-piece suit

First, the tailcoat suit in general terms. According to white tie etiquette, a tailcoat suit is always a five-piece suit with a very formal appearance. A complete tailcoat suit consists of a tailcoat, a tailcoat shirt, a tailcoat bow tie with matching tailcoat waistcoat, and tailcoat trousers.

Each individual garment has its own requirements it must meet. In addition, there are accessories that must not be missing from this formal suit. After all, the tailcoat suit is known for its details.

Tailcoat

Just like with the morning coat, the jacket is characteristic of this formal suit. A tailcoat suit in line with white tie etiquette is not complete without a long tailcoat. This jacket is black in color and recognizable by the pointed satin lapels.

Furthermore, the panels of this jacket are short at the front and cut long at the back. Finally, six fabric-covered buttons are attached to the front of the jacket. These are purely decorative. According to the white tie dress code, a tailcoat must always be worn open. It is forbidden to button the jacket.

Tailcoat shirt and waistcoat

Under the traditional tailcoat, you wear a shirt and waistcoat. White tie etiquette requires that the shirt of a tailcoat has the most formal collar. Of course, we mean a father killer collar.

You recognize a tailcoat shirt by its open collar complete with turned-down points. This classic tailcoat shirt is then combined with a low-cut waistcoat.

According to white tie etiquette, this should be a white waistcoat made of piqué. Additionally, this tailcoat waistcoat should be a few centimeters longer than the front panel of the tailcoat. In some cases, a black tailcoat waistcoat is preferred. That black tailcoat waistcoat is generally worn at specific universities during special ceremonies.

Tailcoat trousers

In a tailcoat suit, everything is about the details. That’s why you can’t just wear any trousers. The same clear white tie etiquette applies to the trousers. First of all, the trousers should be made from the same fabric as the tailcoat.

In addition, the trousers are black with a braid, that is, a satin stripe on the side. Moreover, a traditional tailcoat suit trouser has adjustable buttons. This allows you to easily adjust the trousers to a comfortable fit without anyone noticing. According to white tie etiquette, you should not wear a belt.

Accessories according to white tie etiquette

White tie etiquette is the most demanding dress code for formal menswear. The tailcoat suit must be worn perfectly down to the last detail. In other words, you need to pay close attention to your appearance.

GENTS advises you to take a critical look in the mirror first. Is your hair neat, or do you need a quick trip to the barber? A well-groomed appearance is secretly part of white tie etiquette. Also, you should leave your watch at home. After all, good company knows no time. That’s why a watch is strictly forbidden with a white tie dress code.

A tailcoat suit is not complete without the right accessories. A characteristic accessory for a tailcoat suit is, of course, the white bow tie. The preference is for a self-tie bow tie. If you're not a pro at tying a bow tie, you can buy a ready-made bow tie. Just make sure it is of good quality.

What you absolutely must not do is wear a black tie. That is strictly forbidden according to white tie etiquette. In addition, wear black knee socks, a white pocket square, and black patent leather shoes.