White tie manners
One of the most classic and formal etiquettes is certainly the white tie. This dress code is usually worn at very formal occasions. Think, for example, of a gala, meeting with a prominent person, wedding, an exclusive banquet, or special dinner. When ‘white tie’ or ‘cravate blanche’ is mentioned on the invitation, you are expected to wear a tailcoat according to the corresponding etiquette. Also, during a promotion ceremony at a university, the male doctoral candidate and assistants are expected to appear in a tailcoat. Not sure what the white tie etiquette entails? GENTS is happy to help you. Here you will find all the important information about the rules for wearing a tailcoat properly. Together with GENTS, you can easily avoid a faux pas!
Formal five-piece suit
First, the tailcoat in general terms. According to the white tie etiquette, a tailcoat is always a five-piece suit with a very formal appearance. A complete tailcoat suit consists of a tailcoat jacket, a tailcoat shirt, tailcoat bow tie with matching tailcoat waistcoat, and tailcoat trousers. Each individual garment has its own rules it must meet. In addition, there are accessories that must not be missing with this formal suit. The tailcoat is known for its details. GENTS first discusses the white tie dress code per garment. Then we explain the correct accessories.
Tailcoat jacket
Just like with the morning coat, the jacket is characteristic of this formal suit. A tailcoat in line with the white tie etiquette is not complete without a long tailcoat jacket. This jacket is, first of all, black in color. You can also recognize a true tailcoat jacket by the pointed satin lapels. Furthermore, the front panels of this jacket are short and cut long at the back. Finally, there are 6 fabric-covered buttons attached to the front of the jacket. These are purely decorative. According to the white tie dress code, a tailcoat jacket must always be worn open. It is forbidden to button the jacket.
Tailcoat shirt and waistcoat
Under the traditional tailcoat jacket, you wear a shirt and tailcoat waistcoat. The white tie etiquette prescribes that the shirt of a tailcoat must have the most formal collar. We mean, of course, a wing collar. You recognize a tailcoat shirt by this open collar complete with folded points. This classic tailcoat shirt is then combined with a low-cut waistcoat. According to the white tie etiquette, this important garment should be a white waistcoat made of piqué. In addition, this tailcoat waistcoat should be a few centimeters longer than the front panel of the tailcoat jacket. In some cases, a black tailcoat waistcoat is desired. The black tailcoat waistcoat, also called a tailcoat vest, is generally worn at specific universities with special ceremonies.
Tailcoat trousers
With a tailcoat, everything is about the details. Therefore, you cannot just wear any trousers. There is also a clear white tie etiquette for the trousers. First, the trousers should be made of the same fabric as the tailcoat jacket. Furthermore, the trousers are black with a braid or satin stripe on the side. Moreover, a traditional tailcoat trousers have adjustment buttons. These allow you to easily adjust the trousers to a comfortable fit without anyone noticing. According to the white tie etiquette, you should not wear a belt.
Accessories according to the white tie etiquette
The white tie etiquette is the most demanding dress code for formal men's fashion. The tailcoat must be worn perfectly down to the last detail. In other words, you must pay close attention to your appearance. GENTS advises you to first take a critical look in the mirror. Is your hair neat, or do you need a quick visit to the barber? A well-groomed appearance is secretly also part of the white tie etiquette. In addition, you must leave your watch at home. After all, good company knows no time. Therefore, a watch is strictly forbidden with a white tie dress code.
A tailcoat is not complete without the following accessories. A characteristic accessory for a tailcoat is, of course, the white bow tie. The preference is for a self-tie bow. If you are not skilled at tying a bow tie, you can buy a ready-made bow. Just make sure it is of good quality. What you definitely should not do is wear a black tie. That is strictly forbidden according to the white tie etiquette. In addition, you wear black knee socks, a white pocket square, and black patent shoes. Tip from GENTS: going for the traditional look? Then do not forget the white gloves.
