Black tie manners

The tuxedo is a formal evening suit worn on occasions where ‘black tie’, ‘formal evening wear’ or ‘cravate noire’ is the dress code. In German-speaking countries, this suit is indeed known as ‘smoking’. However, in the United States, they refer to it as a ‘tuxedo’ and in England as a ‘dinner jacket’ when they mean this formal suit. As with all formal suits, you must wear the tuxedo according to certain etiquette rules. GENTS therefore explains in detail what the exact black tie etiquette is.

Two- or three-piece suit

We start broadly. According to black tie etiquette, a tuxedo is a two- or three-piece suit. A tuxedo consists of a tuxedo jacket, tuxedo trousers, and of course the tuxedo shirt. Specific rules apply to each individual garment regarding black tie etiquette. In addition, there are various accessories that are absolutely allowed or not allowed. Before we go deeper into that, we will first discuss the black tie etiquette per garment. Then we will give a detailed explanation of the importance of the right accessories. Moreover, we will also briefly cover an exception to the rule.

Tuxedo jacket

With a tuxedo, you are supposed to wear a tuxedo jacket, also called a dinner jacket. According to black tie etiquette, this is a black coat with satin lapels. It is important that the tuxedo jacket is made of high-quality material. The jacket is the eye-catcher of the suit. In line with black tie etiquette, the tuxedo jacket is available in two styles. The difference lies in the way the collar is cut. There is the shawl collar. This jacket has a classic cut with a thicker collar. When you see it, the collar reminds you of a shawl. There is also the variant where the collar ends in a point. Because the collar is always made of satin, it immediately stands out that you have a tuxedo jacket in hand.

Tuxedo shirt

Under a tuxedo jacket, you wear a matching shirt according to black tie etiquette. Not every shirt is suitable. With a tuxedo, in line with black tie etiquette, you wear a traditional white tuxedo shirt. Such a special shirt for a tuxedo is easily recognized by a few characteristic features. A tuxedo shirt has double cuffs with cufflinks, a pleated front, and possibly a hidden placket. The tuxedo shirt is available with a flat collar, spread collar, or a wingtip collar. Naturally, you wear a tuxedo shirt entirely in line with black tie etiquette with tuxedo trousers.

Tuxedo trousers

Not every black pair of trousers can be worn under a tuxedo shirt and dinner jacket. A tuxedo trouser is specially designed for this formal suit. When you must dress according to black tie etiquette, you need tuxedo trousers. A real tuxedo trouser is easy to recognize by the outer seam. This is finished with a single braid. A braid is essentially a narrow strip of satin visible from the side view of the trousers. Furthermore, it is important that you always wear black stockings under a tuxedo. This prevents skin from showing when you sit down. That is not allowed according to black tie etiquette. Also, you may not wear a belt. If you do need support for an optimal fit of the trousers, it is allowed according to black tie etiquette to wear braces, provided they are not visible.

Tuxedo accessories

A formal suit, besides specially designed garments, also has characteristic accessories. Black tie etiquette requires you to wear a black bow tie complete with matching cufflinks and a white pocket square. If you really want to perfect the look, you can wear a cummerbund made of the same material as the jacket and bow tie. However, this is not mandatory according to black tie etiquette. On the other hand, it is a requirement to wear black patent leather shoes under a tuxedo. All these tuxedo accessories together create an overwhelming effect.

Black tie etiquette outdoors

If you are invited to a formal event outdoors and the dress code is ‘black tie’, you must pay close attention to which tuxedo jacket you put on. There is an exception to the black tie etiquette of the dinner jacket. In the evening during formal outdoor occasions, you must wear a white tuxedo jacket. This jacket must be truly white or ecru, otherwise you still break the black tie etiquette.