The Cutaway Collar: A Stylish Statement with a Dramatic Name

What is a wing collar?

The wing collar – known in French as le col cassé – is a high, stiff, white collar with folded points. It is not sewn to the shirt but sits loose, and was the hallmark of formal menswear in the 19th and early 20th centuries. The collar is so stiff that the head remains virtually immobile — hence the sinister nickname. According to some accounts, the collar is so tight and rigid that you could literally strangle your father with it.

A brief history of the wing collar

The origin of the wing collar lies in the Victorian era. Around 1850 it became a status symbol among the elite. It was a sign of neatness, discipline and control – important values at the time. A loose collar could be worn for several days without having to wash the entire shirt, which was both hygienic and practical.

In the 1920s and 1930s, the wing collar gradually disappeared from everyday wear. The modern, softer collar (as we know it today) came into fashion. Yet the wing collar remained a fixture in certain ceremonial contexts: with morning dress, diplomatic gatherings, and formal university events.

How to wear a wing collar

Although classic in nature, you can still wear a wing collar with style. Here are some ways:

1. With morning dress

The wing collar officially belongs with morning dress – the ultimate formal dress code. Pair it with a white piqué shirt, a white bow tie, a black morning coat and black trousers with a satin stripe.

2. With a tuxedo (for the daring)

Although less traditional, some style-conscious men choose to wear the wing collar with a tuxedo as well. Note: this is bold and only recommended if you know what you're doing.

3. As a style statement

Want to colour outside the lines? Pair a wing collar with a modern jacket, tailored trousers and a vintage bow tie. Think of a Gatsby-esque look for parties or weddings.

Tips for wearing a wing collar

1. Wear it tight but comfortable
   The collar should stand stiff, but not so tight that you can barely breathe. Have it tailored properly or choose an adjustable version.

2. Use a bow tie, not a necktie
   The wing collar is designed for a bow tie. A necktie clashes with the high collar and looks awkward.

3. Keep the rest of your outfit simple
   The collar draws attention on its own. Keep the rest of your outfit understated and elegant, so the collar gets the spotlight it deserves.

4. Care is crucial
   Because the collar is loose, you can wash and starch it separately. Iron it carefully, or have it professionally cleaned for a perfect result.

5. Not for every occasion
   The wing collar is not an everyday choice. Save it for weddings, galas, theatre performances or other formal occasions where you want to stand out with elegance.

In conclusion

The wing collar is a piece of fashion history that still makes an impression today. Its name may be intimidating, but its appearance is quite the opposite: stylish, stately and unique. So: do you dare to wear it?